Unveiling and celebrating the hidden gems of Iloilo’s rich culinary heritage

There is so much more to Ilonggo cuisine than the iconic La Paz batchoy (a hearty noodle soup made with pork offal, beef loin, and pork cracklings), the well-loved pancit molo (a Filipino version of wonton soup), and the popular kansi (beef stew with tamarind). It comes as no surprise that Iloilo City, a vibrant region in the southern Philippines renowned for its delightful flavors and diverse cuisine, earned the title of UNESCO’s first Creative City of Gastronomy in the Philippines. I discovered more about the city’s culinary delights during a delectable seven-course degustación dinner at Savoy Hotel Manila for its inaugural Iloilo Food Festival. 

The week-long celebration showcased the culinary artistry of two chefs from Megaworld Hotels and Resorts (MHR): Executive Chef Kit Carpio from Savoy Hotel Manila and Executive Chef Ariel Castañeda from Richmonde Hotel Iloilo. The event also highlighted a collaboration between the dynamic MHR general managers, Den Navarro of Savoy Hotel Manila and Natalie Lim of Richmonde Hotel Iloilo.

“We envisioned bringing the vibrant activities of the south directly to our hotel, offering our guests the chance to experience and savor the richness of southern cities without leaving our premises,” said Den. “What better way to kick start this concept than by highlighting the City of Love, Iloilo!”

Natalie echoed these sentiments, expressing her delight at being able to showcase Ilonggo heritage cuisine at Savoy Hotel Manila. 

“Paying homage to our food, which represents our culture, is special. How we present our food, get together around the dining table, and commune with each other speaks heavily of the heritage and culture of Iloilo.”

A taste of the South: The seven-course dinner

The highlight of the festival was undoubtedly the seven-course dinner. This sumptuous feast, paired with select wines, was a sensory journey through Iloilo’s rich culinary landscape. 

Kusahos na Tapa

As the first course arrived, I found myself looking at a dish that was both an advocacy and a tradition. Chef Ariel reintroduced us to the Sampaguita project, an MHR initiative represented in this dish.

The dish featured crostini made from Sampaguita (Philippine national flower) with carabao cheese infused with dehydrated and fresh Sampaguita petals. The cheese was sourced from the Philippine Carabao Center in Calinog, prepared in-house, and adorned with kusahos na tapa—beef tapa air-dried for 96 hours in traditional Ilonggo fashion. Chef Ariel highlighted the tradition of hanging the tapa for four days to achieve the desired texture.

“These dishes represent our commitment to promoting Filipino culture, as evidenced by incorporating our national flower and the traditional method of slow food cooking,” said Chef Ariel.

The edible flowers and greens added a touch of vibrancy to the dish, making it as pleasing to the eye as it was to the palate.

Kinilaw

The second course featured a sea-inspired dish by Chef Kit—fresh mahi-mahi fillet marinated in tuba (coconut vinaigrette), topped with calamansi caviar, Guimaras mango, pickled onions, chili slivers, and crispy fish skin chicharon. Drizzled with libas oil for a tangy twist, it was finished off with tobiko (flying fish roe). 

The kinilaw was a delightful mix of freshness, tanginess, and subtle sweetness, leaving me craving more.

Inasal Tacos

Next, we enjoyed a one-bite taste of chicken inasal, a dish sparking debate on its origins – Bacolod or Iloilo. Chef Ariel playfully mentioned settling the dispute with his own version.

The taco shell, crafted from sinanglag (roasted rice), held tender chicken inasal with Ilonggo barbecue sauce. It was complemented by tangy pickled veggies, zesty calamansi aioli, delicate soy pearls, and edible flowers.

“Take a bite of your chicken inasal with your hands, like the traditional way,” Chef Ariel suggested. The dish was presented in a terracotta vessel, honoring Ilonggo pottery traditions.

Linutik

The fourth course, Linutik, was a revelation. Velvety roasted squash puree topped with a delicate squash veil hid a treasure trove of diced sea prawns and lechon Ilonggo dusted with kalkag (dried small fish).

As I savored the linutik, Natalie shared that these dishes are everyday fare in Ilonggo homes. “We’re going into homes, talking to people, asking them to introduce us to their grandparents and teach us these traditional dishes – what do they cook at home, what dishes do they miss,” she said. “Preserving the food and our heritage, it’s also preserving culture.”

Her words added depth to the dining experience, highlighting that each dish was a culinary delight and a piece of Iloilo’s vibrant culture. They were a touching reminder of the deep connection between food, culture, and community, making each bite of this culinary journey even more meaningful.

Pinaksiw na Linugaw

For the first main course, Chef Ariel presented one of his favorite dishes – a unique blend of paksiw (stew) and lugaw (rice porridge). It’s made with short grain malagkit (sticky) rice sautéed with smoked pork and topped with pork skin paksiw.

The dish was then garnished with dehydrated meat and rice crispies, which added texture, crispy banana blossoms, fragrant shiso leaves, and enhanced with the flavors of aromatic black garlic. He recommended eating from the bottom up to incorporate all the flavors.

Pinangat

Next came the Pinangat, a prawn Thermidor served with pinangat puree. Chef Kit explained that the puree was made from udag (young taro). The dish was garnished with toasted coconut and crispy shallots for added texture and flavor.

Palate cleanser: Batuan Granita

Before the next course, we were served a palate cleanser. 

“This is one of the endemic ingredients in Iloilo,” Chef Ariel shared, introducing the Batuan Granita. It was made with freshly extracted batuan juice, a souring agent similar to tamarind, and simple syrup. This dish was a refreshing interlude that prepared us for the next culinary delight.

“With approximately 40 percent of the Philippines’ endemic ingredients originating from this region, we were inspired to utilize them to their fullest potential and reintroduce them prominently,” said Chef Ariel. 

Karne Frita

The Karne Frita arrived at our table, a beautiful presentation of sliced ribeye using the sous vide technique. 

Next to the butter-aged ribeye with caramelized onion au jus, there was a perfectly cooked 64°C egg cooked for 1 hour 20 minutes and golden potato pavé—layers of sliced baby potatoes baked like lasagna.

Sampaguita Ice Cream

For dessert, Chef Ariel presented the Sampaguita Ice Cream. It was a polvoron streusel infused with butter and sampaguita, topped with homemade sampaguita ice cream. 

The dessert was drizzled with calamansi curd and zest to balance out the richness and sweetness. 

Tablea x Pinasugbo x Tultul

The grand finale features a decadent table burnt cheesecake, complemented by a luscious toasted pinasubgo coulis. The chefs approached each table to shave charred tultul salt on the dessert. Tultul, an artisanal salt from Guimaras that takes eight months to make a block, added a smoky, rich flavor that balanced out the richness of the table.

Embracing Filipino flavors and heritage

As the evening neared its end, Natalie rose to speak. Her love for local produce and backing homegrown goods shone through.

“The espresso we will serve with your tablea dessert isn’t your average coffee. It is sourced from Guimaras, known for its sweet mangoes and superb coffee beans.”

She gestured to a coffee station in the corner. “Feel free to enjoy our Guimaras coffee after your meal. It’s a great way to finish your dining experience.”

She detailed their partnership with Kabatuan farmers, whom they have been supporting since 2015. “They cultivate the cacao for our tablea, wrapped in banana leaves at Balai Tablea. It’s a collaborative effort involving the community.”

Her words were met with applause, and as the evening ended, I found myself reflecting on the unforgettable culinary journey I had just experienced. It was not just about the food but also about the people, the tradition, and the stories behind each dish. 

Sharlene Batin, the Department of Tourism Regional Director, beautifully summed up the culinary journey and celebration of Filipino cuisine in her closing remarks at the event.

She expressed delight in participating in the first focus group discussion on food and culinary tourism earlier in the day. The evening at Savoy Hotel Manila, she said, was a perfect way to conclude a day of intellectual discussions on Philippine culinary scenes, offering delightful food experiences with explanations and tales of dishes from Iloilo to Manila.

Her words highlighted the joy found in Filipino cuisine, the communal aspect of sharing meals with loved ones, and the importance of preserving culinary heritage while embracing innovation. This celebration of Philippine cuisine emphasized the joy of preparing, serving, and consuming food with family and friends. 

The evening was filled with tasty delights, stories, and camaraderie, connecting everyone through Ilonggo cuisine and leaving everyone full in both belly and heart.

All photos by Rhea Vitto Tabora